A couple of months ago some friends and I decided to climb Snowdon. No particular reason - it just seemed like it would be challenging, yet doable. Last week’s heatwave made me very nervous - I didn’t want to climb in that kind of heat - and we set off on a very hot Friday afternoon. After a three hour drive, during which I was ‘introduced’ to the music of country duo Big and Rich - standout hit ‘Save a horse, ride a cowboy’ - we made it to the surprisingly large Quality Hotel Snowdonia in Llanberis.
For a town that must attract a fair few tourists, there weren’t many places to eat. We’d arrived too late to book a table at our own hotel’s restaurant, and eventually ate at a different hotel. Everything seemed to shut down at 2100 though - I’m not sure what would happen if you arrived after that.
The next morning we headed to the local supermarket for supplies, then started climbing at around 1015. After a short while we realised we were being followed by the monster from Lost:
which was scary. Happily, it turned out to be the Snowdon Mountain Railway - the train that runs from Llanberis to the summit.

Our path followed the track all the way up, and it’s quite the engineering feat. Also a real-world embodiment of every unimaginative mechanics exam I ever took. It does take an hour to reach the top and, as will become apparent, there are faster ways. The weather, happily, was nigh-on perfect. Cloud cover with a breeze, but no sign of rain. Exactly what I’d been hoping for.
After twenty minutes or so I started to get worried. I was climbing a particularly steep section of path and was already very tired and very slightly nauseous. I’d thought I was fit enough, but began to worry I’d overestimated myself. Happily it went away within a couple of minutes. I’d guess there’s some kind of dietary explanation to do with different energy reserves(?) People I’ve told since said they’ve had similar experiences, anyway.
Once I got over my momentary worries I was most happy. It’d been ages since I’d bounced around from rock to rock, and the climb was exactly what I’d been hoping for. There were other, far steeper, paths on the far side of the mountain, but the Llanberis track is pretty decent. It was long, but easy. Much like myself.
We took it fairly steadily, with frequent breaks for healthy snacks, and it wasn’t too long before we reached Halfway House, a small store with tables. We were actually quite chuffed at this point - it hadn’t been too tricky up till then. The next half made up for that.
Just around the corner was a steep, very scrabbly stretch that wasn’t fun at all. I had to keep my eyes permanently scanning the ground ahead, as if I looked up I invariably tripped over or slid.
After which it was time for a very well-deserved rest
I don’t know why there were so many rocks in bags, though.
Around the hillside, under the railway and after another 90mins we turned a corner to spot the summit:
Now that is a proper summit. I’ve climbed various mountains in the Lake District, and they all have boring summits. It’s climb climb climb flat-bit. Satisfying, but dull. You want a good ridge leading to a satisfying point, in my opinion
That way you can pretend you’re in Lord of the Rings, albeit without the beards or evil death spiders.
It became far more crowded towards the top because of people who came up on the train, wandered about for half an hour, then went back down.
Along the ridge and it was the summit! We took a celebratory photo:
then Ed and I climbed up to the actual highest point. It just had to be done. There was a bemused dog up there:
He seemed to be saying ‘…and?’. Dogs don’t appreciate views.
Not only is there a train station at the top of Snowdon, there’s also a cafe. So we grabbed muffins and ate them in a sheltered spot. A seagull wanted my muffin. It kept hopping closer and closer, until finally it made a move. I reacted with a frankly James Bond-like plan of tipping over backwards, shutting my eyes and going ‘argh’. It flew away. My plan rocked. It then made a move for Ed:
but I’d scared it so much that it didn’t try anything with him. I’m so clever.
It became rather chilly up there, so before long we started back down. Except it wasn’t so simple, because thirty minutes before we left 500 runners had started racing their way up from Llanberis. The record was 68 minutes. As we crossed the ridge the first runners passed us, and they kept on coming.
We clapped and cheered appropriately, and after waiting twenty minutes for some let-up started walking, just trying to keep out of their way. I think I’d be more nervous about running down than up - one wrong footfall on the scrabbly slope and you could twist an ankle very badly. One guy passed us, shook his head and said ‘fucking mad’. I can see the appeal, actually, although I can’t see myself ever trying it…
As we descended we discussed which of The Famous Five each of us represented. I was Dick, apparently. Anne, Julian and George were also dispensed, and this conversation ended when the fifth person realised who she must be
Soon afterwards the sun appeared and burnt away some of the fog, resulting in some great views.
It became a little hot, and the suntan lotion was starting to wane by this point. Some of us were a little red by the time we reached the town! We were rather tired, and had taken 6 hours longer than the fastest runner (67mins - a new record), but were happy
All the photos are viewable here.
Not wanting to waste Sunday we drove over to Colwyn Bay. However, my normally trustworthy TomTom suffered from a mapping error and after taking us down a 1:4 hill cheerily announced I had reached my destination. We were at this point surrounded by sheep and a dearth of sea. After some choice words and a diversion into Strange Village Full of Old People we made it to the Bay and the beach. Don’t do beaches. There is nothing more boring than a beach. Not that I was annoyed - I would just have wandered off into town if we’d stayed much longer. The others enjoyed it, however:
We tried to sneak away, but failed…Then it was over to Chester to drop Ed home, and finally back to Birmingham. I slept well last night
I think a good time was had by all, and you can’t ask for more than that.
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woo
I did the same walk earlier this year and the same enjoyed every minute of it. We camped over in LLang or something like that and got up at the crack of dawn to walk the mountain. Great 3 days and would recomend to all. We went up as a 4 and would advise to take lots of water and rota who carries the bag every 30 mins. We were a mixture of shapes and fitnesses but all got uo to the top even though at te start it was doubtful.
Im going up it again 2moro but doing it in 1 day , we only live around 1.5hrs away so should be home for tea as ive got a footie match to play in.
So get out there and try it. Great view,food and people.
Mike Knight
I started going up snowdon 5 weeks ago, first time with my daughter we went up the llanberith route then the following wednesday we went up the pyg track, the next saturday I went up the pyg track again,and last friday I went with a guide up the Crib Goch route, took just under 7 hours , I am of again next saturday to do the Crib Goch route myself, then i will have all the other routes to do to, great fun and a great day out
CR Brown
A beautifull web page but please remove the offensive language there is certainly no justification in allowing it to appear.
Presumably you mean the comment by the passing runner? I think that’s justified; it was something somebody actually said, and isn’t an insult or used aggressively. I see no reason for it to cause offence…
Tsk. You will end up with your site being banned from library computers you know!
Not again! It took them a long time to get over my Jerry Springer review
I heartily agree with Peter Lewis and disagree with Andrew. The word is offensive and acknowledged to be so by not only ordinary, decent people but by the world at large. There can never be an excuse for using it (or any other filthy language) whatever the context or circumstance.
How can a word be offensive? It makes no sense. A word cannot in itself be offensive if not used in an offensive way. There is nothing about describing a run up a mountain as ‘fucking mad’ that attacks anybody or anything, and no reason for anybody to get upset by it. That the word is frequently used aggressively is irrelevant; it’s also frequently used as a shorthand for sex, or to express an extreme of emotion, as in this case. It’s just a word.
The year was two-thousand seven and mankind was still struggling to grasp the true nature of words.
OOOhh, I thought this was a very interesting piece and can’t believe that people commenting are getting hung up on one word which the author was quoting someone else as having said!! There you go it takes all sorts. Hope I get to go up Snowdon one day - with cafe’s at various points I might even persuade my small son to accompany me.
thanks for taking the time to write about your trip to help others like me who dream of such freedom.
In this day and age more people need to believe that decent people are offended by such words and can get hung up on them, their use is growing more common among certain sections of the community. As for them being just words - remember that such words are forbidden at certain times on radio and TV and that using them in a public place is a criminal offence that is punishable by a prison sentence. No, they are not JUST words - the are evil, offensive words! Some people at least know how do deal with the practise, roll on the day when everyone does and we no longer hear or see them used.
Jop
Jayne - glad you liked it.
Jop - I can see you obviously have strong feelings on this, but I still don’t understand how the word ‘fuck’ is inherently offensive, let alone ‘evil’, regardless of context.
My final word on obcene language and only written in reply to try and help Andrew’s ignorance.I am sincerely sorry about your admitted lack of understanding Andrew. However there is nothing I can do to help you see what most other people know nor with your own obvious inherent offensiveness (shown by you using bad language in your reply to me even though you know that I “have strong feelings about it” - find it offensive). Why do you think that so many regard it as offensive and evil - even those who use it? As “bad, or foul, language”? As “obscenities”? Why banned at certain times on radio & TV? Why printed as asterisks in even the most vulgar of periodicals? Why do ordinary, decent people refuse to use it and object to it’s use? Maybe if you answered those questions yourself and improved your knowledge about what is good and what is evil, acceptable in society or unacceptable, you might then no longer be in ignorance regarding the matter.
Jop
Blimey. This got angry all of a sudden.
Why isn’t there anything you can do to help me see what ‘most other people know’? Presumably you can explain it? If not, why do you think it? So far you’ve only given me conclusions and appeals to authority, which, as I’m sure you know, don’t count as logical reasons.
If you decided you didn’t like the word ‘pilchards’, would I be under any obligation not to use it around you, when ‘pilchards’ doesn’t actually mean anything that’s unpleasant? If you and a thousand of your friends decided it was offensive, what then? It doesn’t matter how many people think something, if there’s no good reason to do so.
I want to know how a word used in a completely inoffensive context can cause offence. It makes no sense. The word ‘f*ck’ (I don’t want you to stop reading, as I actually think this is important) is no more inherently offensive than the word ‘pilchards’, until you use it in a manner intended to cause offence. If ‘f*ck’ was only ever used to cause offence, you might have a point, but it clearly isn’t.
I will ‘respect’ people’s bizarre hangups up to a certain point, but I’m not going to avoid using certain words (in a quote, no less) when there’s a valid reason for doing so and no reason against.
Simplicity, brevity, clarity, conciseness. These are all traits of superior communication and expression. Denying some of the simplist, clearist and concise words in our language serves only to limit oneself. These words have been distilled of meaning over time to the point of being transparent vehicles for emotion, capable of conveying anything from remorse through anger and on to joy. The delivery is everything and indeed there can be nothing else with these words. Unhindered by literal interpretations they provide some of the most beautiful snapshots onto the human soul that you will see and yet you would hide from them, fearful of experiencing the raw unadorned emotions of another. Shame.
Yaaaawn!!!
Great post, shame about the replies!!
It’s a rude word, get over it.!
Thanks very much for the insight into climbing Snowdon! I accidentally volunteered myself to climb it soon along with a large gang of workmates - most of whom are doing the whole 3 peaks challenge. It’s for charity. Now that time is drawing near I was beginning to wonder what I’d signed up for and more to the point, if I’d make it! Reading your article has restored my faith in my ability to get to the top!
Ta muchly!!
PS: I support your stance on quoting the runner - was a anecdote that said it all from the runner’s point of view!
HI
Never mind the rude word! what happened to the comments about the amazing climb that is Snowdon?
I too am planning another climb for charity in the near future.
Maybe one day I will even attempt the pennine way or three peaks as well.
You know what I was so ingrossed in the pictures and climbing stories and crazy people who choose to run to the summit - I had to go back to find the rude word. Is that bad? Loved your stories by the way and am planning on climbing it next weekend wheather allowing.
NB. I think you just have to get over these things but I guess its due to peoples exposure to language and its uses. I work on building sites were every other word is offensive or rude to someone or other(including me) and now I just let it pass me by.
It is important to be aware that as English is a living language it constantly changes and acceptance of words change over time.
Well… I’ve now done it! YAY! Done it last Sunday. Rain battered down for the first hour, then went off and weather was fair for the rest of it. Was dead cloudy at the summit though so not much to see. We did the llanberis path and my word - that road that takes you up onto the mountain is steep. Enough to put you off! I was thinking if this is it for the duration, I’m in big trouble. Luckily it wasn’t though. lol!
My mate wants to do it now, so looks like I’m doing it again before Summer is over.
And, we (about 60 of us) did it for charity with a £25k target, and so far we’ve got just over £20k. Still quite a lot to come in as far as I know, so I think we’ll hit it.
oh… and hopefully this’ll work….
…Cheers from the roof of Wales!
[IMG]http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j165/Nervarro/Snowdon/DSC00497.jpg[/IMG]

drat. Didn’t work. Oh well.
F*ck this nonsense about rude words (why bother reading if you feel so offended?????), let’s just enjoy the climb to the summit of Snowdon! I did it on June 23rd, one of the only f*cking dry days that week, but it was on a Saturday so it looked like I was on Oxford Street London during the sale! Wasn’t easy to reach the cairn with the brass plaque, because of the crowds. Does anybody know who the musicians were at halfway house? Especially the blond guy sounded really good. He was playing around 1 o`clock.
Now the word issue is dead. What do people think is the easiest route up Snowdon. Train excluded! I would like to take my daughter(aged 10) up but not too harsh a route. Weve done Penyfan a number of times plus other Beacons. Never done Snowdon tho. Any thoughts
Ki
hi u weidos!!!! u are being a silly willy head
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sssssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiittttttttttttttttttttttttwwwwwwwwwwwiiiiiiiiiiiilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
found this piece on google was lookin up snowdon
was onli going to skim through it but got proppa attached haha
great piece cant believe people over the word ‘fuck’ :S
fuck, fuck, fuck
im sorry just winds me up urghhh
haha get over it
onca again great piece:)
love the website!!! oh and jop…..cae dy geg!! pen pyden!!! hope that causes offence you fucking sad sack!! oh and if it offends you so much then get the fuck out of wales and don’t come back! obviously it is full of ignorant people who choose to use this word daily! so go ahead and call the police because……… FUCK!!!!!!!!!!!! ha ha ha